Paris avoiding the tourists: Pigalle*
I’ve visited Paris many times – for work, doing the sights or as a pitstop when heading South or returning home (NEVER go to Paris in August – it’s closed, hot, full of tourists). But by far my favourite way to visit this magical city is the annual trip I make with my friend to visit a friend that lives close to the infamous Moulin Rouge.
Paris is broken up into 20 municipal districts. Arrondissement means rounding and numbers are clockwise starting from the edge of the city – the 1st arrondissement is in the centre, (Le Louvre). They are shown in roman numerals on all signposts and the last two digits of Paris postcodes also show where you are.
Our friend lives in Pigalle which borders the 9th and 18th. Unsurprisingly, given it’s the home of the Moulin Rouge, it used to be known as the redlight district (and indeed still has its fair share of sex shops), but the area has undergone significant gentrification and its nightlife is now known more for food and entertainment along with boutique shopping, art and fabulous bakeries.
Pigalle is at the foot of Montmatre with the stunning Sacré-Cœur Basilica at the top. Its cobbled streets ooze artistic heritage and despite being a tourist mecca, Montmatre feels like a village. It’s easy to wander off the main tourist route along residential streets and discover hidden gems of cafes, shops and tiny galleries. Be mindful as you wander, Montmatre means martyr’s hill and you’re unlikely to avoid very steep steps at some point.
Top 5 Pigalle tips
Arrive by Eurostar. Arriving in Gard Du Nord it’s a 15 minute cab ride to Pigalle (taxi queue moves quickly, so best to say no to the guy offering to take you on his moped for half the price). Closest metro stations are Blanche and Abbesses, both line 12.
Stay at Hotel Basss. Located on the bustling Rue des Abbesses, we’ve stayed at Hotel Basss many times because you just can’t beat the location. Typical boutique Paris-hotel – 36 small rooms, not cheap, but not expensive by Paris standards. Recently renovated, it has everything you need – staff are friendly (not always guaranteed in Paris) and it’s the perfect base for hanging out in Pigalle and Montmatre.
Eat cake. Whether your indulgence is croissants (viennoiserie), bread (boulangerie) or pastries (pâtisserie) – you can’t possibly go wrong. I’d recommend Le Comptoir de Madeleine in the 9th for the quintessential French shell-shaped buttery cakes and my absolute favourite will always be Les Petits Mitrons on Rue Lepic (where you can also find Café des Deux Moulins – of Amelie fame – avoid, very touristy). Takeaway only they have the BEST cookies and muffins ‘Tarte Sucrees’. Closed on a Wednesday. Open until late like all good cakeshops should be.
Go to a brocante. Paris is well known for its markets selling antiques and second-hand goods. A brocante takes place on Rue des Abbesses 3 or 4 weekends a year. It’s quite small by Paris standards but is charming with stalls on the street and square. There’s plenty of permanent antique and bric-a-brac shops dotted around the area, and if vintage is your thing, then definitely recommend Carmin, also on Rue des Abbesses (now you can see why Hotel Basss is sooo convenient!)
Experience the cabaret. This year we went to Madam Arthur, Paris’ first gender-twisting cabaret. Dating back to 1946, it underwent a major transformation in 2015 but still evokes old-school glamour. It’s 100% French music so if you don’t speak the language most of the comedy will go over your head, but regardless, for a real Parisienne experience I highly recommended it. The singers are spine-tingly AMAZING. There are two performances and after the first show there’s the craziest audience-participation game of Name That Tune meets Mass-Karaoke called ‘French Test’ with some of the best people watching. Then the nightclub kicks-in – open until 6AM. Book tickets in advance with food (expensive, but a fun part of the experience), standing only is only €20.
*There are LOTS of tourists in Pigalle, but relative to much of Paris, it feels like you’re in a village mixing with locals doing their weekend chores or grabbing coffee and there’s no queues, tour buses or major chains.
