Boracay, Philippines: Busy at First, Beautiful After

Boracay was our next stop after El Nido. It was one of the easier islands to get to, and from everything I’d seen before the trip, it looked well worth adding to the itinerary.  It is beautiful. But my first impression of it was not exactly love at first sight.  We dropped our bags at the hotel and headed straight to White Beach for sunset. The beach was packed. I have never seen so many people gathered in one place just to watch the sun go down, and I remember thinking, oh no… what have we done coming here?

Then we went back the next day.

Hardly anyone was there, and it felt like a completely different place. Calm, bright blue water, soft white sand, and easily one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever been on.  That was the moment Boracay clicked.

Getting there

Boracay was one of the easier islands to get to next, but it still took a bit of travelling.  We flew to Caticlan, took a short ferry over to the island, then jumped in a tuk tuk to our hotel.

Top tip: book your Boracay flights well in advance. Flights can be more limited than people expect, and they can be surprisingly expensive if you leave it too late.

Straight away, Boracay felt very different from El Nido. It was more commercialised, with more hotels, restaurants, bars, and a much more built-up feel overall.  That will either be a plus or a minus depending on what kind of trip you want.

Where we stayed

We stayed at Ferra Hotel and Garden Suites, which was about a 10-minute walk from White Beach.  The hotel had a rooftop pool, although not loads of loungers, and the staff were some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met. That alone goes a long way when you’re staying somewhere for a few nights.  The location worked really well for us because it was close enough to get to the beach easily, but not right in the middle of the busiest area.

Top tip: you do not have to stay directly on White Beach to enjoy Boracay properly. A short walk can give you a better-value hotel without losing the convenience.

I would happily stay there again.

First impressions

Boracay felt more developed than El Nido straight away. More chain hotels. More bars. More restaurants. More people.  It definitely felt more touristy, but not in a way that completely put me off. It just felt like a very different kind of island experience.  El Nido felt more raw and a bit chaotic. Boracay felt more polished and more set up for an easy beach holiday.

What our days looked like

Most of our time in Boracay was split between beach days and boat trips, which for me is exactly the right kind of holiday balance.

We spent time on White Beach, which is split into different stations. There are no sun loungers allowed directly on the beach in Boracay, so instead we spent a few days using the facilities at nearby hotels. Order drinks and lunch, and the bed is basically yours.

Top tip: if you want a comfortable beach day in Boracay, don’t overthink it. Pick a hotel or beach club, order food and drinks, and use their setup rather than expecting rows of public loungers on the sand.

We also went to Diniwid Beach, which was one of the prettiest spots we visited. It felt like a proper cove, smaller and more tucked away, and we spent the day at Dinibeach Bar and Restaurant, which was a great find for food and drinks.

Then there was Balinghai Beach, where we used the facilities at Crimson Resort and Spa Boracay. This one worked on more of a day-pass basis, but your food and drink spend was deducted from that, so it still felt worth it.

That’s one of the things Boracay does well. It makes beach days easy.

The moment it all made sense

We also did a sunset boat trip on the west side of the island.  The sea was such a bright, ridiculous shade of blue that it almost didn’t look real. It was one of those moments where you stop trying to take photos and just stare at it for a bit.  That was probably my biggest okay, now I get why people come here moment.

Evenings in Boracay

Evenings in Boracay were fun.

White Beach has bars and restaurants all along the beachfront, and the good thing is it doesn’t all feel the same. You’ve got everything from higher-end restaurants to more casual beach shack bars, so you can do whatever kind of evening you’re in the mood for.

We had a lot of fun at Exit Bar, which is more of a dive bar on the beach and felt much less polished than some of the other places around it.

We also found Battuta, a speakeasy right on the beachfront, which did amazing cocktails and felt like a really unexpected find in that setting.

Top tip: don’t just stick to the obvious beachfront spots. Boracay has some fun places tucked in amongst the more touristy bars if you’re willing to wander a bit away from D’Mall, the main shopping area in the centre of White Beach.

It felt lively and fun overall, but not in a way that forced itself on you. If you wanted quieter evenings, you could find them.

The reality check

Boracay is definitely more commercialised than El Nido.  If you want somewhere that feels off the beaten track, untouched, or particularly local, this probably is not it.  And yes, parts of it can feel busy and a bit too polished. That first sunset crowd on White Beach nearly put me off altogether.  But once you settle into the island and find your spots, it makes a lot more sense. It is touristy, but it is touristy in a way that makes life easier. Beach days are easier, evenings are easier, and that convenience does count for something.

Final thoughts

I absolutely loved Boracay.  It had been closed to tourists for two years to clean the island up, and you can tell they want to look after it. The beaches are stunning, the sea is unreal, and the island is easy in a way that makes it very tempting to stay longer than you planned.  It is commercialised, and if you want somewhere more raw and less developed, this probably will not be for you.  But if you want beautiful beaches, brilliant water, fun evenings, and an island that is simple to enjoy, Boracay is a very easy place to love.

Would I go back? Absolutely.